World War I Battlefield Tourism Kenya
The World War I account may be something that does not constitute part of the collective memory, for most people. However, for the people in Taita Taveta, the history of that global conflict that started from 1914 to 1918 reverberates in their culture. The bones of those who experienced it are locked away at the Voi Museum and War cemetery.
The story goes that some men from the Wakasigau Community left their village to go fishing. But while on their way, they were ambushed by some German soldiers from the Schutztruppe, commanded by Paul von Lettow-Vorbeck. The soldiers threatened them to disclose the location of the British camp. After hours of relentless torture, the men took the Germans to where the British had camped. This incident set the basis for Taita Taveta being declared as a war front by the British-a move that later on influenced the lack of administrative support and subsequent harm that befell the community.
The first shot that signified the beginning of the war was fired on 15th August 1914, and this shot set the pace for the war that later engulfed not only Kenya, but also Uganda and Malawi.
Image from Think Africa
At least 14,000 members of the Kasigau community were taken out of their land in Taita Taveta, and re-settled in Malindi. Taita Taveta was one of the battle grounds where the British, who were part of the Allied forces (the Allied Forces were Britain, Russia and France) fought against the Central Powers (Germany, Austria-Hungary, the Ottoman Empire, and Bulgaria).
Visiting Kenya’s World War I sites brings this long-forgotten and hushed account to life.
The Key sites to visit include:
The Voi War Cemetery: The cemetery has 137 graves which include 70 South Africans, 12 Rhodesians, 9 East Africans, 44 British, and 2 Indian graves. One of the graves in the cemetery is unidentified. At the center of the cemetery is the Cross of Sacrifice. You can learn more about the cemetery here.
After visiting the cemetery you can also visit Samburu railway Station, the Tsavo Railway Station and Mzima Springs. The Tsavo railway station, for instance, was used by the British to bring their supplies during the war.
The Severin Safari Camp is another key spot to visit. The camp is located within Tsavo West National Park, which was a significant location during World War 1.
Trenches, Fortresses and Memorials
From Salaita Hill, Maktau Hill, to the Snippers Baobab and the Former Taita Taveta police station, Taita Taveta is rich with evidence of World War I. About 27 miles from Voi town, there is the Maktau Military Line where the British 25th battalion Loyal North Lancashire regiment engaged in combat with a group of German Saboteurs. The Loyal North Lancashire regiment built a fort at Mashoti in late 1915, and when you visit the site, you’ll see remnants of this Fort.
In the same year, over 20,000 Empire troops were airlifted to East Africa and settled at Maktau. Next to this site is Pequet Hill, which has dry stone wall fortifications that were set up by the British.
The Sniper’s Baobab tree is another WWI destination that’s been popularized by legend. The story goes that a German woman camped in this hollow baobab tree and targeted British troops as they tried to attack Salaita Hill.
Salaita Hill was a vital spot during the war due to its strategic location. Salaita is strategically placed between Pare Mountains in the South and Mt. Kilimanjaro in the West. The Germans quickly occupied this location in 1914. The British attacked the Germans three times in Salaita, and lost each time.
The Maktau CWGC Indian cemetery is a must-visit as you traverse the battlefield sites. This cemetery contains 16 Commonwealth war graves, including 1 unidentified. The cemetery was exclusively for Indian casualties of the war. In 1915 there was a small British force at Maktau. However, they were ambushed by the British. A fortified camp was later established along with a reinforcement depot and an Indian clearing hospital. The Taveta Cemetery was specifically for Germans and Indian soldiers.
Echoes of A War Past
There are a series of trenches, abandoned railway lines, and remnants of artillery that were used in WWI in Taita Taveta. British Gun Encampments can still be seen on the site on the Maktau hill, as it was a very strategic point for the British army during the War. The Former Taveta Police Station is where the first shot that started the battle was taken. The site is abandoned yet it holds such a rich account of the event. Lastly, there is the Grogan’s castle which was built by Colonel Ewart Grogan in Taveta. The Colonel helped the British soldiers. For instance, he built a canal commonly known as Njoro Kubwa canal, opposite Lumi River in Taveta built to irrigate his farms that produced food for the WWI soldiers.
Grogan Castle-Blue Room. Image from Grogan Castle web
Sites To Visit-Briefly
Here’s a brief summary of battlefield sites to visit in Taita Taveta.
Voi Commonwealth War Graves Commission WW1 Cemetery
The Voi Commonwealth War Graves Commission WW1 Cemetery, a poignant testament to the sacrifices of the Great War in East Africa. Here you’ll find the grave of Lt. Dartnell VC, a true hero whose bravery earned him the Victoria Cross. During my battlefield tours, I always take a moment to lay a ceremonial wreath on the Cross of Sacrifice, a deeply moving experience that connects us to the history of the East African Campaign.
Tsavo Railway Station: Where Legends Were Born
Imagine standing where the legendary Man-eaters of Tsavo once roamed. The Tsavo Railway Station remains virtually untouched since its construction in the late 1890s, offering a vivid glimpse into the past. Just a stone’s throw away is the Tsavo River Bridge, a vital strategic point that the Germans relentlessly tried to destroy during WW1 in East Africa. Its heavy defenses ensured it remained intact, a silent witness to countless skirmishes.
Kichwa Tembo Fort: A Strategic Stronghold
Perched on a now-overgrown knoll, Kichwa Tembo Fort is a fascinating example of early WW1 dry stone wall forts in Kenya. Built in September 1914, its purpose was clear: deny German forces access to crucial water sources and prevent their advance along the river route towards the vital Uganda Railway. Today, you might find sleeping hippo and buffalo amidst the “wait-a-bit” thorn trees. While it’s a rough 150-meter uphill walk, the historical significance of this East African Campaign fort is well worth the effort.
Crater Fort: Views and Vantage Points
Ascend to Crater Fort, nestled within an extinct volcanic cinder cone. Built in 1915, the climb can be challenging due to loose cinders and prickly bush, but the panoramic rewards are immense. From here, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views across the Tsavo River Valley, the majestic Mount Kilimanjaro, and the sweeping Ngulia Mountain range. It’s a favorite spot for lions catching the breeze and surveying their next meal, making it an ideal, shady picnic lunch point on the Rhodesian Bridge across the Tsavo River. Experience the history and wildlife at this unique WW1 site in Tsavo.
Fort Mzima: Trenches of History
Explore Fort Mzima which was built under German attack on a knoll overlooking a bend in the Tsavo River. You can still see extensive and impressive trenches and barbed wire entanglements, remarkably preserved. A relatively easy approach along a game trail, just 75 meters off the road through low bush, will lead you across several of these historical trenches. Buffalo and hippo often frequent the area, adding to the wild beauty of this significant WW1 defensive position. Don’t forget, nearby are the amazing Mzima Springs, a vital freshwater source in the Tsavo West National Park that supplies Mombasa.
Poachers Look Out: Strategic Views
For extensive views over the Tsavo River and plains, head to Poachers Look Out. This summit, easily accessible by car, served as a crucial observation post, alternately used by both British and German forces during WW1 in East Africa. Imagine snipers taking aim from this vantage point, making it a key location for understanding the strategic movements of the East African Campaign.
Snipers Baobab Tree: A Legend Etched in Bark
This magnificent tree is a living piece of WW1 history in Kenya, and a fascinating stop on any battlefield tour.
Salaita Hill: The Unyielding Stronghold
Salaita Hill was the “cork in the bottle” of German East Africa, a strategically vital position that had to be overcome. Occupied and fortified by the Germans in September 1914, it stood between the Pare Mountains to the south and Mt. Kilimanjaro to the west. The British attacked three times, suffering heavy losses each time. Salaita Hill is a crucial site for understanding the fierce resistance encountered during the East African Campaign and the bravery of those involved in the Battle of Salaita.
Mahoo: A Mission Transformed
What began as a Church Missionary Society post became a fortified German stronghold in September 1914. At Mahoo, you can still see several well-preserved trenches, remnants of the German defenses. This site offers a glimpse into the changing roles of civilian structures during WW1 in East Africa.
Taveta CWGC European WW1 Cemetery: Sacrifices Remembered
The Taveta CWGC European WW1 Cemetery is a solemn reminder of the lives lost during the East African Campaign. It primarily holds the fallen from the intense attacks on Salaita and the surrounding area, as well as those from the fierce battle at Latema and Reata Ridges. German war dead are also interred here. On my battlefield tours, I always take a moment to lay a ceremonial wreath on the Cross of Sacrifice, honoring the shared sacrifice. This WW1 cemetery in Taveta offers a peaceful place for reflection.
Former Taveta Police Station: The First Shots
Though now on its last legs and in desperate need of restoration, the Former Taveta Police Station holds immense historical significance. It was from this very building that the first shots of the land campaign were fired, signaling the dramatic start of the East African Campaign. A truly pivotal location for understanding the opening moments of WW1 in Kenya.
Taveta CWGC Indian WW1 Cemetery: Honoring Indian Courage
The Taveta CWGC Indian WW1 Cemetery stands as a poignant memorial to the Indian soldiers who bravely served and fell during the East African Campaign. Their contributions were vital, and this cemetery ensures their sacrifice is not forgotten. A significant site for understanding the diverse forces involved in WW1 in Kenya.
Latema/Reata Ridge & Serengeti Mbuyuni: Turning the Tide
These ridges were the scene of the last intense fighting on British colonial soil as German forces were pushed back into German East Africa. Latema/Reata Ridge marked the first major engagement for the South African Forces under General Smuts, a battle that led him to replace most of the British commanders with his own South African officers. Nearby, Serengeti Mbuyuni started as a cleverly built dummy fort by the Germans, designed to deceive the British. It later became a crucial staging post for British attacks on Salaita Hill. Originally a British motor cyclists’ observation post, it was taken by the Germans, heavily fortified with trenches, and then attacked by the British, who were initially repulsed. The second and final attack months later marked the beginning of a slow German withdrawal from occupied British Territory. Eventually, it transformed into a vast British camp, complete with a hospital, post office, and even a theatre. These sites offer a deep dive into the strategic shifts and intense battles of the East African Campaign.
Maktau CWGC Indian WW1 Memorial: A Somber Reminder
The Maktau CWGC Indian WW1 Memorial stands as a solemn tribute to the Indian soldiers killed when General Malleson was ambushed by German forces. Though originally a British cemetery, the dead were later reinterred at Voi. This memorial serves as a crucial reminder of the dangers faced by all forces during the East African Campaign.
Mashoti Fort: A Glimpse into British Military Design
Built by the Loyal North Lancashire Regiment in late 1915, Mashoti Fort offers a clear glimpse into typical regulation-design British forts, laid out “by the book.” While well-eroded today, the trenches and layout are still clearly visible and easily accessible. Discover the structured military engineering of WW1 in East Africa at this historic site.
Mt. Kasigau: Skirmishes on the Summit
Mt. Kasigau was the scene of two significant skirmishes between British and German forces. The Germans held this strategic peak for several months, granting them easy access to the vital Uganda Railway. Explore the challenging terrain where these battles unfolded, a testament to the strategic importance of the highlands during the East African Campaign.
Samburu Railway Station: Kitchener’s Brother’s HQ
The Samburu Railway Station was once the headquarters of the Railway Protection Unit. It was here that Field Marshal Kitchener’s own brother was deployed after falling out of favor with the British military hierarchy in Nairobi. This site offers a unique anecdote about the human element and personal stories woven into the fabric of the East African Campaign.
Don’t forget the wildlife.
Last but not least, don’t forget to spare a day or two to immerse yourself in the flora and fauna found in this amazing Taita Taveta county.
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